There are a hundred ways to do Mexico City badly. There are six ways to do it well. This is one.
Day 1 — Roma Norte, slow
Wake up at the Casa Polanco around ten. Walk to Cancino on Querétaro for the only breakfast that matters: huevos divorciados with a green sauce that has no business being that good. Walk it off through the bookstores on Álvaro Obregón until you find Cafebrería El Péndulo and lose two hours.
Lunch at Pasillo de Humo with a private tasting from chef Alam Méndez. Afternoon nap. Dinner at Lardo, then a slow walk through the Jardín Pushkin while the city changes color.
Day 2 — Frida, but right
Casa Azul opens at 10am for the public. We arrange entry at 8:30am, with the curator. You spend two and a half hours in the house alone. You touch nothing.
Lunch at Casa de Madera in Coyoacán. Afternoon at the Anahuacalli — Diego Rivera's other museum, the one with the obsidian floor. Dinner at Pujol. The omakase. Don't argue.
Day 3 — The secret rooftop
We do not write the address. Your concierge sends a courier with a small map an hour before. You arrive on foot. Sixteenth floor of an unmarked building in Reforma. There is no menu. The chef cooks four courses based on what came in that morning. The view is the volcanos. There are six tables. There has never been a bad meal.
You leave at sundown. You fly home tomorrow.